Applying Foundation/Base- The Professional way!

                                         

            Applying Foundation/Base So in our practical make-up class at Solent we learned how to apply a foundation/base.
The base that we used was greese based and it was from the Krayolan platelet.


In the class we learned how to match the colour exactly to the persons skin colour and how to mix the foundation to get it the perfect shade. In this class I learned the following :

-After cleansing , toning and moisturising scrape out the product and mix it to a suitable shade on the back of your hand.

-You can thin down a base/foundation with a primer if you feel it is to thick

- Grease based foundations go on a lot smoother but really aren't that suitable for someone with an oily skin type

-An oil free foundation is better suited for an oily skin type

-You use a satin primer for a dewy look and a matt primer for a matt look

-On a flim set to stop shine occurring, instead of continuing to add powder you can use a matt primer on the t-zone and continue to add a small amount of this each time there is shine on the skin, this stops the make-up looking like it is just sitting on the skin

-Always apply your base first then add your concealer. If you apply the concealer first the base when its applied tends to take off the base

-In colour correcting concealer , pink neutralises blue tones, green neutralises red, and yellow/peachy colours neutralise   brown shades . The reason the colours do this is because they are the opposite colour to each on the colour wheel.

-When doing concealer under the eye you use 1 or 2 shades either darker or lighter depending on what look you are going for and what you need

-When applying the base you will need to conceal around the nose, mouth and eyes as everyone has naturally different colouring around these areas

-Finish off your look by applying powder
-For a great make-up , Grease on grease , powder on powder.

To the right you can see my images of my base application, The first photo before a before photo. There wasn't time in the class for me to do it in the make-up studio so I did it in my house. I used a satin primer mixed with the foundation to lighter the consistency of the foundation and my model has quite good skin to being with and I didn't want to cover it all with make-up as I wanted a very natural finish to my base. I used a satin primer because my model has quite a dry skin time and I wanted to work with her skin and not against it so I felt this was my best option.

Things I felt I could do better on was client care, when I was doing the concealer around the eye area my models eye became quite red and then started to water. I should of been more careful and asked how she felt.  Maybe focus a bit more on concealing around the nose area as the tip is still a small bit red. I felt the colour match was good but this was also in artificial lighting not white light so this would look probably more warmer on her in white light so it wouldn't be a true colour match but I felt I should work to the lighting that the photos where being taken in.
   The eye lids are slightly more dark then the rest of the foundation but as I was going for a natural finish and I felt naturally your eye lids would be ever so slightly darker I wasn't sure which to keep them a bit darker or to bring them up to the same colour as the rest of the face.
  I would have liked to have tried a matt primer just for a different finish and to feel how the skin is with a different primer but my clients skin was quite dry and dehydrated so I didn't feel it was the best decision to make. I'm looking forward to learning how to contour and highlight the different face shapes in the next coming weeks .

How I applied the base:
I cleansed and toned the face and then applied a light hydrating moisturiser.
My model had some dark circles around her eyes so I concealed them using a yellow based concealer. She had slight redness across her cheeks and nose so I picked a green concealer and applied a small amount on the red areas blending and buffing it out with a stippling brush. When I was happy that I had my correction work done I then chose my foundation -Estee Lauder Double wear light in shade intensity 1.0 , I put some on the back of my hand and then applied a small amount on the jaw to test the colour, this wasn't the right colour it was to dark so I then used the Illamasqua white foundation and mixed it together to get the right colour. When I was happy with the colour I then mixed in a drop of the satin primer .
   I applied the base to the face with a stippling brush and I worked from the centre of the face to the ears , apply the product in the centre of the face and working out, I feel comfortable using a stippling brush as I feel I have more control over the product and I'm able to really work the product into the skin with it so its not just sitting on top of the skin-I feel this also helps achieve a more natural and realistic look. When I was happy with the coverage and base I then applied a lose translucent powder to the face in short sweeping motions as this powder was not for coverage but for finish .
  I used the Estee Lauder Double Wear Light Foundation because I'm comfortable working with it, it provides good light coverage without feeling heavy on the skin, it has fantastic staying power and really gives a good finish, it also has oil in it so I felt it was a better option for a model with dry skin as Grease based foundation wasn't an option for me .